HarleyHogs
2000 FLHRCI DriveBelt Install
You'll notice I've a HB-125 hydraulic chain tensioner installed, you'll need to refer to your service manual
on removal of the OEM one.
You'll need something to lock up the compensator sprocket and clutch basket.
I made this.

Its a good idea to grind/mill the edge of the socket for the compensator sprocket nut flat like this.
It will help stop the socket slipping off as you apply pressure on the compensator nut.
1 1/2" on compensator sprocket nut and 1 3/16" on clutch basket.
Wedge the locking bar between lower compensating sprocket teeth and the upper INNER teeth of
the clutch basket for removal of the nut.
Use a breaker bar, if it's real tight you can hit the socket/nut a few sharp 'taps' with a brass hammer
while applying pressure.
The shock should break the locktight seal on the nut.
If you can't loosen the nut with a normal lenght bar, use an 'extension' over the breaker bar.
A piece of scaffold pole works a treat, at this stage just loosen the compensator nut, don't completely
remove.
Next, remove the retaining ring and release plate together with the lock nut and adjusting screw from
the clutch hub.
You can leave the pushrod in-situ.
Now, remove the clutch hub main shaft nut, reverse the locking bar as this nut has left handed threads
so turn clockwise to remove.
Remove the compensator sprocket nut now.
You can slide everything off as a complete assemble and set to one side.
A good idea to bag and tag things as you go along so parts don't get jumbled up and to keep things clean.
Bend back the 'tab' on the starter jackshaft lockplate and while protecting the gear, hold it tight to stop
the jackshaft bolt rotating, remove the bolt with its lockplate and washer.
A thick cloth and normal vice grips works better than what you see here.
Remove the jackShaft assembly from its bore, 'bag an tag'.
Page 3
|