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Cam Change Guide
Well, now that you've got that new Twin-Cam scooter you're probably sitting around
thinking about just what to do next.With your last bike a cam was the simplest way to
get a significant horsepower boost, but now your engine has two of them and a whole
new technology besides. What'll you do? Well, since you're reading this your problems
are over. With the help of the fine folks at Jims, we'll
make those cam changes a breeze and get you to tire smoking heaven, quick.
After securing the bike on whatever kind of lift you have, blow off all the road crap that's
accumulated on the pipe side of the engine. Remove the spark plugs. Pull out the push
rod tube spring cap retainer and collapse the tube toward the head. You can hold the
tube in place with a small bungee cord or a long spring. Raise the rear wheel off the lift,
and, with the transmission in 4th gear, use the rear wheel to rotate the engine until the
lifters on the rear cylinder are in their lowest position. Using a pair of bolt cutters, cut the
stock push rods, remove the pieces and discard. (Photo 2) Rotate the engine to bring
the front cylinder lifters to their lowest point and remove the push rods in the same
manner. Remove the lifter covers, lifters and lifter dowels and set aside in a clean spot.
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
Photo 5
The cam cover is the next to come off. Remove the Allen head bolts securing the cover
to the engine case. The cover can be suspended by a small bungee and hung in front of
the brake pedal. You must be careful with the cover bolts, however, because they are
slightly longer than the camshafts support plate bolts, you must be sure to keep them
separated. The primary cam sprocket and crank sprocket bolts are now removed,
using crankshaft/cam shaft locking tool. (Photo 3) Using twin-cam tensioner
tool, (Photo 4) relieve the spring tension on the primary chain tensioner and insert one
of the retention pins (Photo 5) through the tensioner arm and into the support plate.
This will relieve the tension on the chain and allow the sprockets and chain to be gently
worked off the shafts.
Photo 6
Photo 7
Immediately set the chain and sprockets down and mark the outside of the chain, with a
colored marker, (Photo 6) to make sure the direction of travel is maintained. Now
remove the four Allen bolts holding the oil pump to the support plate, and next remove
the six Allen bolts holding the support plate to the engine case. (Photo 7) In order to
reach the last support plate bolt you must also remove the front chain guide by
squeezing the two tabs and pushing it rearward through the two cast blocks in the
support plate. The support plate and the cams can now be removed by applying a
gentle prying pressure between the side of the support plate (Photo 8) and lightly
working the plate back and forth until it comes free.
Photo 8
Photo 9
Photo 10
Photo 11
The support plate is now placed in a soft-jawed vice, (Photo 9) or other holding fixture,
and using the same technique as with the primary chain tensioner, relieve the pressure
on the secondary cam chain tensioner and install the other retention pin through
the front of the support plate (Photo 10). The cam bearing retaining plate is now removed (Photo 11)
Photo 12
Photo 13
Photo 14
Photo 15
along with the slave cam retaining snap ring, (Photo 12) and the cams are ready to be
pressed out. Using the camshaft, and camshaft bearing remover/installer (Photo 13)
carefully press the cams and bearings out of the support plate. At this time it is
necessary to mark the cam chain, with a colored marker, (Photo 14) to assure that the
chain is reassembled with the proper direction or travel. At this time, if you plan to re-use
the bearings, or if this is a bearing change, the bearings can be removed using the Twin-cam camshaft bearing remover tool. (Photo 15)
The plate can now be cleaned and the new cams can be installed.
Cam Change Page 2
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