HarleyHogs

Disclaimer: this is NOT an official Harley-Davidson site and so, trade marks, names, part numbers, extracts of catalogues (etc) will
only be used for reference only.
Some technical procedures might also be explained but in NO way does it infer that these practices are condoned or advised by
the Harley-Davidson Motor Company.

Cam Change Guide page 2

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The cams come out with their bearings and chain. The chain will be reused on the new cams but not
the bearings. The front cam has a ball bearing and the rear cam has a roller bearing.




The cam plate is turned over and set into the pressing block so that the bearings can be installed.
The outer edge of the bearings should be given a light coat of assembly lube before pressing them in.




The cams' timing marks must be aligned prior to setting them in their drive chain. The marks are
in the form of punch marks on the nose of each cam. Align the marks so that they point to each other.
The cams and their chain are pressed in as a unit using the pressing bridge and pressing block.




There are three O-rings that fit into recesses of the cam-plate mating surface on the crankcase.
Two of the O-rings are for oil passages, and the third is for the oil pump.




Before the cam plate can be installed, the tensioner pin for the inside cam chain must be moved
to the outside of the cam plate. If this pin is not relieving the tensioner on the inside chain, the
cam plate won't go in because the cams will be pulled toward each other. The snap ring is installed
on the end of the front cam. Note: The timing marks are lined up on the two cams.
There is a special procedure outlined in the service manual for tightening up the cam-plate bolts and
the oil-pump bolts.




The lifters are given a coat of assembly lube and inserted into their respective bores.
The anti-rotation pins are set in place and the lifter covers are installed.




The Screamin' Eagle Quick-Install Pushrod kit has separate pushrods for the intake and exhaust.
You can tell the difference by the machining at the top of each pushrod. The kit also has new shorter
lower pushrod tubes and longer pushrod tube locks than the stock tubes and locks. This is for
added clearance when you are adjusting the pushrods.




The pushrods are adjusted per instructions after all of the slack is taken out of them.
It is easiest to adjust the pushrods before the cam cover is installed -- this way, you can use
the pinion bolt to rotate the crankshaft.




The cam cover, spark plugs, exhaust pipe, and air filter are back on, and the bike is ready for
the stoplight stampede. With the cam changed, we again had to have the fuel-injection computer reprogrammed.